Gil's Blog

Let’s start with a genuine photograph of Hale Crater on the surface of Mars, from the European space agency (ESA):

Click on the image to enlarge..

If you have a good monitor, you can already something intriguing on the lower part of the image.

Just to make sure, I checked the web site domain, esa.int:

IANA Whois Service
Domain: esa.int
ID: esa-int

Registrant:
Name:
Organization: European Space Agency (ESA)
Address1: 8-10, Rue Mario Nikis
Address2:
Address3:
City: Paris
State/Province: N/A
Country: France
Postal Code: 75738 Paris Cedex 15

So, we are dealing with the real ESA, not some other bogus web site. If you click on the photo above, you can clearly see geometrical patterns on the ground. These are not natural.. I played with the image on Gimp, reduced brightness and increased contrast, sharpened and reduced colors:

Click on the image to enlarge..
Now, can somebody tell me, what in hell are those patterns?

Photographing a lightning storm is easier than it seems, assuming you have the right camera and a bit of luck and patience. The same technique applies to fireworks. People wonder how I took the photo below right when lightning struck. I’ll let you in on the secret…

I didn’t. No amount of expresso could make anyone that fast! The shot is actually of three different lightning events a few minutes apart.

First, you’ll need a camera that has what is called a pause ‘B’ or ‘T’ speed setting. Yes, that’s what those two you never used are for! Pause B keeps the shutter open as long as you keep the shutter button pressed. Pause T keeps the shutter open until you change the setting. So, pause T is better because you don’t need to keep pressing the button and risking moving the camera, which by the way must be on a tripod.

Choose a low sensitivity film, like 25 or 50 asa/iso. Your exposure will last a few minutes and you don’t want to over-expose the background or get thick lightning looking like a defective lightsaber.. Same goes for digital cameras. A fast setting or film will increase the grain, you’ll lose details.

You’ll have to play with the f stop. I like to start with 4 or 5.6. I tend to avoid lenses that can’t open to at least 2.8. No matter what your lens is, open to at least one stop over the minimum, two is better. Lenses usually do not perform at their best at the extreme of their aperture range.

Get a thick, black piece of fabric like felt to cover the lens. A plastic cap would work, but you risk moving the camera. Make sure no light will enter the lens when you hold it in front of it. Now you just have to wait for the perfect storm! And by the way, don’t expose yourself in an open field or too close to the storm, lightning is a dangerous subject. I took the photo out of an appartment balcony for protection.

Now you’re ready! Lightning all over, your camera is up, you’re standing there in your yellow raincoat holding an old fedora to cover your lens. Open the shutter. Remove the hat! Count seconds (I tap my foot for rhythm). Bam! You got one, cover the lens (keep the shutter open) stop counting. Bam! Shit, you missed that one. Wait a bit, uncover, count… Wham! Number two is in. Close the shutter. Note the exposure time and f stop for future reference. Do it all over again…

With a bit of practice, you will produce amazing photos. There are many other interesting things you can photograph at night with a long exposure, and that are no doubt less dangerous than a storm. Look at the photo below:

The exposure was 20 minutes! I was getting pretty bored, but the result was worth the wait. The light traces are of car headlights and taillights. You don’t see the cars because they were not long enough in front of the camera to imprint the film.

Have fun with this technique! I’d like to see pictures posted in the comments.. Questions are welcome. Merry Christmas everyone

Gil.